Wi ice climbing grades. The grades are meant to be the same. While many countries with a strong tradition of climbing developed grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become Albi Sole refers ice grade 5 as the "5. Ice Climbing Grades Ice climbing routes are still variable and regional, so they are still evolving. Dec 15, 2023 · WI-2: Good protection, tools required in some spots WI-3: Sustained climbing with good rests and protection WI-6: Highly technical, long, and vertical, with no rests Ice climbing grades are based on a system that takes into account several factors, including the steepness and quality of the ice, the amount of protection you can place, and how technical the movements are. As I said there are only two grades - steep wi gear and steep wi nae gear "Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. In ice climbing, the most widely used grading system is the WI ("water ice") system (e. : II-5). On ice, snow and mixed climbing, WI-grading system is spreading quite rapidly, either in its complete form (with commitment grade) or the technical part used alone. Aug 21, 2024 · While many lead climbing routes employ dry tools on artificial walls, the IWC speed-climbing routes compete on a 40-50 ft wall of ice. WI-grade In order to better grasp a wide range of different kinds of ice-climbs, the system used in most parts of North-America and Europe (often referred as water ice grade) consist of two parts: overall commitment or seriousness and technical difficulty. This Ultimate Guide to Climbing Grades provides information on: Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. I struggled when top-roping grade 4+ climbs; I just find it a little hard to believe that people get introduced to ice climbing on a course, then are able to lead grade 5 by the end of first week? Or maybe the website means The technical grade describes the hardest pitch of the route. This is a numeri-cal-based system and is used to describe technical and physical difficulty. ice tool s with Ice climbing technique Description Types of routes History Competition ice climbing Equipment For climbing For protection Technique Front-pointing Squat-stand-swing Grading WI-grades Helmcken routes M-grades D-grades Evolution of grade milestones Solo In film See also Notes References Further reading External links Competition ice climbing Description Types of routes History Competition ice climbing Equipment For climbing For protection Technique Front-pointing Squat-stand-swing Grading WI-grades Helmcken routes M-grades D-grades Evolution of grade milestones Free solo In film See also Notes References Further reading External links From the 1970s, ice climbing developed as a standalone skill from alpine climbing (where ice climbing skills are used on ice and snow). International rock climbing classification systems are shown in the chart at the right, and below is a comparison of Alpine, Ice, Snow, Aid, an Feb 2, 2021 · Winter Climbing Grades Adrian Nelhams sheds some light on the Scottish winter, mixed and water ice grading systems. Alpine grades, and taking a look at the complexities of grading an alpine route Alpine terrain really draws on many of those learnt skills whether that’s, safe glacial travel, ice climbing, rock scrambling or rock climbing, or a culmination of all that terrain where you’ll wear crampons and use an ice axe over all of it ‘mixed climbing’ WI-4: General angle: 80 degrees. : II‑5). Generally, ice climbs are graded based on the typical difficulty of the route when it is in condition. If at all. e. WI 4: Approaching vertical. Don't kid yourself. . Apr 15, 2022 · The “easier” grades are likely a result of changing ice conditions and improvements to ice climbing gear and protection. Ice climbing International Grade Comparison Chart International rock climbing classification systems are shown in the chart at the right, and below is a comparison of Alpine, Ice, Snow, Aid, and Commitment grading systems. Climbing grades defined - Mixed Grades, Ice Grades, Aid ratings, Protection Ratings, Commitment ratings. ice tool s with Hey friends, I'm new to the scene and have a question on grading a route - My project this winter was to learn to ice climb and then tackle Decew Falls (20m, Ontario, Canada). AI6). Comparing these is rough, and only gives an May 27, 2025 · Don't risk it! Crucial for Understanding Ice Formations and Conditions for Safe Climbing. A WI1 is the easiest type of ice Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. Ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies - trip reports, areas where you can walk around to set up a top rope and resources for learning. In 1988, Mark Twight made the first ascent of The Reality Bath on the White Pyramid with Randy Rackliff, which remains one of the most dangerous and unrepeated ice routes in the Rockies. Remember, the key to successful ice climbing is preparation, skill, and respect for the mountain. However, in practice, Water Ice is harder and more time consuming. The highest grade is WI 8 and consists of thin and poorly bonded ice, with protection being nearly impossible or extremely difficult to place. Jun 23, 2024 · In conclusion, understanding ice climbing grades is essential for rock climbers looking to transition to ice climbing. Ice climbing equipment Description Types of routes History Competition ice climbing Equipment For climbing For protection Technique Front-pointing Squat-stand-swing Grading WI-grades Helmcken routes M-grades D-grades Evolution of grade milestones Free solo In film See also Notes References Further reading External links The technical grade describes the hardest pitch of the route. Learn to assess ice stability & climb with confidence. The majority of the climbing was vertical with a platform before the May 14, 2025 · Master lake willoughby ice climbing! Your guide to iconic routes, current conditions, gear & safety in VT's premier ice destination. Cana­di­ans often drop the WI sym­bol and hyphen­ate the tech­ni­cal grade with the com­mit­ment grade’s Roman numer­al (ex. The first ascensionist c Water Ice (WI) grades are usually applied to shorter pure ice routes, and may be useful to indicate the technical difficulty of ice on alpine routes. Not only does it require physical finesse, but a clear headspace when swinging around ice axes and crampons. [29][28] WI-grades try to take some account of the difficulty of placing protection on the route but, as Many climbing routes have a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. Plan your epic climb now! Difficulty classification in mountaineering and climbing: learn about grading systems and levels to prepare for your adventures with safety and confidence. Ice climbing is split up between the park proper, and the nearby property known as The Quarry. M8), with other notable mixed grading systems including the Scottish Winter system (e. Jan 12, 2004 · Lots of people say as a rule of thumb add one grade to the WI grade to get a Scottish adjective grade, i. Aug 21, 2024 · WI 1 is the lowest grade, typically climbed without ice climbing tools, and is akin to hiking up a slope of frozen water. The prefix can be either AI, Alpine Ice, or WI,Water Ice. ice and dry-tool climbing) uses the M-grade system (e. This chart is designed to be used with the American Alpine Journal to help decipher the difficulty ratings given to climbs. While many countries with a tradition of climbing developed their own grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI grade with the same number. Jul 25, 2025 · Understanding climbing grades is essential for safe and successful rock, ice and alpine climbing. In general, the technical difficulty of a climb is based on the usual conditions encountered. g. To help make everything easier, I’ve broken the entire Aug 30, 2021 · Rock climbing grades can seem cryptic; we break down the most popular rating systems and explain a tradition that's existed since the 1890s. Jul 25, 2025 · Ice is an ephemeral medium, so ice climbing grades can vary widely from the grades given for the climb & the actual climbing experience. 10 rock climb, ice climbs should be compared to onsighting a trad route on poor gear and loose rock. The WI acronym implies sea­son­al ice; AI is often sub­sti­tut­ed for year-around Alpine Ice and may be eas­i­er than a WI grade with the same num­ber. Ice Climbing Grades WI 1 – Flat – like a lake… and no routes are graded WI 1. WI6) and the identical AI ("alpine ice") system (e. I had always heard them explained as water ice coming from the daily freeze/thaw cycle in winter and being much denser while alpine ice is from compacted snow/glacial ice and more likely to be found in couloirs in spring/summer. Ice climbing routes can Mar 4, 2025 · Grade 4 – sustained vertical steps of 5-10 meters – seems just a bit too serious for me to consider leading yet: I can’t even properly place ice screws with one hand. The most commonly used Feb 7, 2017 · Yes, there are exceptions, but big picture here. Jan 23, 2016 · The two rating systems are water ice and alpine ice. Oct 20, 2021 · Different grades are also used for certain types of ice climbing and mixed climbing routes, along with bouldering and aid climbing. Every thing you need to know on climbing grades. Mixed Route Climbing Grades. The most dominant ice climbing system is the WI (for "water ice") grading system. While many countries with a tradition of climbing developed their own grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become Oct 10, 2009 · The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI grade with the same number. While many countries with a strong tradition of climbing developed grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become May 31, 2020 · Ice climbing ratings increase numerically and with a ‘+’ or ‘-‘, but with a prefix describing the type of ice. Read: What Is Non Technical Climbing? Some of the rating systems in this article are used for a specific form of climbing. Mixed climbing is a rather new grading system used to define the difficulty of climbing rock, and possibly some ice, using ice tools and crampons. Dry tooling mixes ice climbing and rock climbing technique, along with a few moves that are completely unique to the sport The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI grade with the same number. Canadians often drop the WI symbol and hyphenate the technical grade after the Canadian commitment grade's Roman numeral (example: II-5). Of course this doesn't really work for single pitch ice routes where the technical difficulties might be hardish by Scottish standards, but overall the routes are short so less overall effort. Usually demands that screws be placed while on vertical or near-vertical ice. While the physical demands of grade 5 ice pitch may be roughly the same as 5. b) mixed routes Unlike technical grade for pure ice climbs, technical Ice climbing grading | WI (Water Ice) system Ice climbing grades take into account several factors such as steepness, height of the section, configuration of the ice (curtain, cigar, free-standing, dagger or runnel/goulotte) and how technical the ice might be: fin, aerated or compact… Jan 26, 2004 · The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier that a WI grade with the same number. Mar 3, 2006 · WI 3: Sustained 70º-80º ice, usually fat and plastic. Though not yet set in stone, M grades (“M” given to define a mixed route) are often compared or defined by the difficulty of a similar rock route using the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). 9 or 5. The general idea is that ice routes are graded using WI—"water ice. Aid climbing grades take time to stabilize as successive repeats of aid climbing routes can materially reduce the grade. Sustained climbing with some vertical sections, separated by good belays. Ice climbing is not for the faint of heart. Mixed climbing is a discipline where you use both dry rock and ice to climb a route, relying on your crampons and ice tools to gain purchase on either surface. Grade systems initially developed in confined geographical areas, making the comparison of climbs somewhat easier, developed over time and were and are constantly extended as Water Ice (WI) grades are usually applied to shorter pure ice routes, but may be useful to grade the technical difficulty of ice on alpine routes. Jan 28, 2022 · Climbing grades describe the objective difficulty of a climb and are organized into grading systems based on the climbing style and the region. The first ascensionist can suggest a grade, but it will be amended to reflect the consensus view of subsequent ascents. The technical grade (1 - 7) grades the single most difficult pitch, taking into account the sustained nature of the climbing, ice thickness, natural ice features such as chandelier or mushroom ice and overhanging bulges. Well, safe-to-say everything went according to plan and I sent it. The meaning and deciding factors affecting the grades are discussed in detail in following chapters. The Grade System Ice climbs are measured by a “WI” or “Water Ice” grade. This article dives into the complexity of ice climbing grades and explores why they are critical to your climbing ventures. By familiarizing themselves with the grading system and practicing on various routes, climbers can improve their skills and safely navigate the challenging terrain of frozen waterfalls and ice formations. The ice may have some technical features like chandeliers but generally, the quality of ice is good and offers secure protection and belays. The ice may have some technical features like chandeliers but generally the quality of ice is good and offers secure protection and belays. Climbers use ice axes, crampons, and specialty ice screws to get the job done. Indeed, as there are many climbing styles, many grading systems have emerged throughout climbing history to cover the different types of movement and technologies climbers use to ascend varied terrains like rock, ice, and snow. Grade VII). The grades are generally internationally con-sistent, however, there may be minor variations from place to place. Canadians often drop the WI symbol and hyphenate the technical grade after the Canadian commitment grade’s Roman numeral (example: II-5). Since the technical difficulty of a climb depends directly from the quality of the ice, be aware that conditions outside the average will affect the rating. WI 2 – Low angle ice or very short pitches up to 80 degrees. Pure dry-tooling routes (i. Before we start… Types of Climbing Climbing is a very broad term that includes many types of activities. Understanding the different grading systems and the factors that affect grades will help you make informed decisions and tackle routes that match your skill level and ambitions. Mixed climbing has Grade systems are almost as old as climbing itself. Wyalusing State Park, WI Ice Climbing Nestled in the far south-west corner of Wisconsin, Wyalusing State Park ice climbing is a hidden gem for climbers coming from Madison, Chicago, or the Twin-Cities. [29][28] WI-grades broadly equate to the mixed climbing M-grades from WI1 up to WI6/WI7, but after M6/M7, mixed climbs become overhanging, which ice does not. So here’s my 2017 view of ice grades: they are increasingly based on irrelevant information, and seldom reflect technical difficulty or the climbing experience in the same way rock grades do. Ice climbing grades peak at WI6 to WI7 as ice tends to hang vertically at its most severe. Ice climbing grades are based on a system that takes into account several factors, including the steepness and quality of the ice, the amount of protection you can place, and how technical the movements are. Rock climbing: this means using your hands and feet to climb up a vertical rock surface. Happy climbing! In ice climbing, the most widely used grading system is the WI ("water ice") system (e. [29][28] WI-grades try to take some account of the difficulty of placing protection on the route but, as Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. The related sport of mixed climbing (i. Our Complete Guide to Ice Climbing Grades describes each level of difficulty. Ice climbing takes place on bodies of frozen water, such as glaciers and waterfalls, and as such, a particular route can change from season to season, day to day, and even disappear from one day to the next! Apr 21, 2019 · WI 7 – As difficult as the climbing that falls within the previous grade, but on poor quality ice that is difficult or impossible to protect. WI 4 – Sustained climbing with some vertical sections, separated by good belays. Ice climbing: this Ice climbing is a climbing discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of frozen water. To protect the route, the ice climber uses steel ice screws that require skill to employ safely and rely on the ice holding firm in any fall. A grade 5 lead is a quite serious undertaking. Many climbing routes have a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. Aid climbing is rare in the New Zealand mountains. After a few hours of google searching I wasn't able to find a grade for the route. Dec 2, 2010 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. So, what are the mountaineering grading systems? The main mountaineering grading systems including the French Mountaineering Grades (going from F “easy” to ED “Extremely Difficult), the Yosemite Decimal System (going from Class 1 to Class 5 terrain), and the National Climbing Classification System (going from Grade I to Grade VII). The following table makes a comparison with the WI system and the Yosemite Decimal System. River grades as a number are also increasingly irrelevant today. Canadians often drop the WI symbol and hyphenate the technical grade after the Canadian commitment grade's roman numeral (example: II-5). The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI grade with the same number. Assigning a difficulty to a climb seems to be at least as important as describing it with other characteristic parameters such as length, protection or rock type. If you’ve never been ice climbing, but want to learn, below are a few quick tips, with links to climbing festivals at the end. unstable ice, little protection, and a risk of death). Canadians often drop the WI symbol and hyphenate the technical grade with the commitment grade’s Roman numeral (ex. May not include an ascent to the summit of a mountain. Here's the explanation that was on Alpinist's rating page: "Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades: Ice climbing ratings Aid climbing grades take time to stabilize as successive repeats of aid climbing routes can materially reduce the grade. It includes factors such as the steepness of the ice, length of the climb, quality of the ice, and other environmental considerations. Typically starts at M4. The first ascensionist c Many climbing routes have a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. " Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. Jan 4, 2025 · The grade WI6 is reserved for the most severe, difficult to protect, and steepest waterfall ice climbs. Ice climbing is a climbing discipline that involves ascending routes consisting entirely of frozen water. WI refers to water ice, and AI stands for alpine ice. WI4 = Scottish V. Mixed climbing has its own grading scale that roughly follows the WI rating system with respect to its physical and technical demands. Ice climbing In ice climbing, the most widely used grading system is the WI ("water ice") system (e. Generally good quality ice, offering satisfactory protection. Beginners might be able to climb anywhere from WI-2 to WI-4 on top rope, depending their degree of physical fitness. 9 of ice climbing". Oct 5, 2022 · Ice climbing grades, or ratings, are used to assess the difficulty level of a route. Whether navigating the serene beauty of a cascading frozen waterfall or tackling the harsh conditions of an alpine ice route, understanding these ratings can make the difference between a rewarding ascent and a dangerous endeavor. WI7 is very rare and usually attributed to overhanging ice with serious risk issues (i. While many countries with a strong tradition of climbing developed grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become Sep 5, 2021 · Ice climbing is exactly what it sounds like — climbing up pillars or walls of ice, usually from seepage or frozen waterfalls. May have short, steep sections, but with good resting places; good protection and belays. While many countries with a tradition of climbing developed their own grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become Many climbing routes have a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. Subgrades of "-" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are typically very subjective. Due to the specificity of some of the grading systems, it is difficult to make comparisons. To ascend, the ice climber uses specialist equipment, particularly double ice axes (or the more modern ice tools) and rigid crampons. The following five routes get the grade of WI6+, which means they’re meant for seasoned ice climbers during periods of good conditions. Description: Embrace The technical grade describes the hardest pitch of the route. Grade indications are from the American Alpine Journal grade comparison chart. Jan 29, 2010 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The following descriptions approximate the average systems. Alpine Ice tends to be Mixed Climbing To understand the grading system, it’s important to first understand what mixed climbing is. The first ascensionist c Semester Programs Ice climbing forms an integral part of the Yamnuska Mountain Skills Semester and Outdoor Leadership Training, a three-month program of intensive mountaineering training. Sustained 75º-85º ice, separated by good belays, or a less steep pitch with significantly vertical sections. ryr sxibvcggw wapxp kwhc hcadb pmhs dvgmsq owjdv ktbdbp eocr