How to train finger strength for climbing reddit.
Second the pinch training at the start of a session.
How to train finger strength for climbing reddit. 5 years, am 5’ 8. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. But strength gains never hurt anyone either. Around 2 hours climbing, 1 lifting. In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. What I told here can make sure that it is the right decision at that time. I don't think anyone follows a program with the specific purpose of strengthening the tendons in your hand, and I don't think it makes sense to do so. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. Everyone is right though - Climb more to get better at climbing. There are two types of finger strength: flat finger strength and curved finger strength. You really don't want a finger injury in your first few months of climbing. It also seems that some people's finger strength responds better to "just climbing/bouldering" than other people who need focused finger training. Train for finger strength and the tendons take care of themselves. See full list on trainingforclimbing. Not a very exciting answer, I know, but just be patient. Otherwise, currently I tend to do pinch training on a non-climbing evening followed by some basic dumbbell work. The reason I like this is because despite their being merit to “just climbing” instead of training finger strength in isolation, I feel quite strongly a lot of new climbers at modern gyms will end up under training their fingers due to the heavy use of jugs and slopers. Oct 27, 2021 · You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. So, what can you do to reduce your risk of these pesky finger injuries? Here's a 6-minute "protective" finger training protocol that will nourish and strengthen your flexor tendons and pulleys. In experimenting with various types of finger training over the years (weighted hangboarding, repeaters, block pulls), I have come across concentric finger curls, and overcoming isometric pulls as a method to gain (potentially) more finger strength. From what I've seen of weightlifting things, the general consensus is that low intensity, high reps is better for tendon strength. Apr 27, 2025 · Finger strength training consists of a lot of glides, movement based exercises, and functional training like climbing and hangboarding. You can learn a lot about your actual pull up strength and finger strength by combining the two exercises. Climbing and pull exercises alone can be pretty taxing without additional training. This is why training to strengthen your fingers is crucial if you want to take your climbing skills to Sep 30, 2024 · Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. Do this as Prehab or rehab after consuming Supercharged Collagen. I wouldn't do much direct grip training though. Jan 26, 2024 · The importance of finger strength for climbers It’s obvious that our fingers play a crucial role in climbing, right? Have you ever come across a photo of someone clinging to a hold using only the tips of their fingers? Believe it or not, it happens! Finger strength is crucial in climbing, especially if you aim to climb hard. Either that, or what I do (when I have the option to do so in my current frustratingly scheduled work-life balance) is train finger strength in the morning/noon before a climbing session in the afternoon/evening. Thursday is project bouldering because it's sandwiched by rest days from pulls. Climbing is a mental and technical skill sport that requires regular practice and devotion, and paying attention to your finger strength is crucial if you want to climb safely. Someone with good core strength will be able to use that far away foothold on a steep wall and gain a little strength back in their arms whereas someone with poor core strength is only going to drain their strength more. The first is kind of pushing strength of the fingers and what arm wrestlers train for a lot, the latter is your "normal" grip strength. In climbing, the fingers remain relatively static after grabbing a hold, so it’s best to train finger strength in the most common positions: Has anyone trained wrist or forearm strength in particular and noticed useful carry over to improvements in climbing? Has anybody has success with training this longer term? I recently see increasing content online relating to isolated training of the wrists via forearm training inspired by forearm training tools and drills with the wrist wrench and heavy roller style exercises from the likes This may or may not help but climbing requires a lot of finger/hand/forearm strength. That said, grip strength for climbing is a bit different as its locking you fingers and not crushing in your hand. Your finger stress should come from climbing and over doing it is asking for an injury I think the priority goes something like this: Finger strength. ex shoulder stability or just technique under the fingerboard. Apr 7, 2024 · Introduction to Arm-Lifting finger strength training Finger strength training is essential if you want to improve your climbing. Apr 27, 2025 · In this article we are going to talk about some the best ways to build climbing strength and how to train grip strength inside and outside of your local climbing gym. There’s plenty of finger extensor trainers available for cheap. Apr 23, 2024 · We can all agree finger strength is the No. This will really build finger strength and core, as you should be fighting to stay afloat. You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors. How much time does a mild finger tendon injury need to heal while “at rest”? Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? If you’re training finger strength (hangboard), always train open hand just to avoid injury and because it’s the one you and most people are worse at. g. My guess is that a 2-3 rep max weight strict pull up on a 20mm edge is probably the best predictor for overall climbing performance. Finger pushups train for flat finger strength. The stronger your extensors, generally the harder you can grip something provided that you are training the flexors as well through climbing and/or strength and conditioning (like hangboard). I came from a background of some other sports so I felt like I had a good baseline of strength that improved over time through climbing as well. Built a little routine to train it, want some critique. Looking to build your finger strength as a rock climber? These articles, podcasts, videos, and more can help you learn to strengthen and care for your fingers. com Timestamps:0:00 Introduction1:20 Energy system lesson2:05 Hangboard8:58 Spray wall13:00 Campus board17:32 How to implement each method yourselfToday we're ta I agree that strength (especially finger strength) is very important in climbing, but I’d like to caution against the idea that technique is mostly intuitive, and that most people will be able to “figure it out” by just climbing. Second the pinch training at the start of a session. 5” tall, and currently weigh 195lbs. Training strength usually requires isotonic exercises like pull-ups that involve moving the joint through its range of motion, so muscles get stronger at every angle. Finger Planks Hold a high plank (or raised pushup position) using your fingers to hold you as high as possible. Learn what’s driving the trend as well as how to use the protocol. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Sep 30, 2024 · Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Raised-Leg Diamond Pushups These hit core, shoulders, triceps, chest, and back. You could look up different finger routines specific to climbers and see if that would help. I have a good back and pulling strength but lack of grip strength is holding me back. Probably also campus boarding on small rungs? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Let’s dive in to some specific training to get those fingers ready for small edges and tiny crimps! Sep 30, 2024 · Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. Timestamps:0:00 Introduction1:20 Energy system lesson2:05 Hangboard8:58 Spray wall13:00 Campus board17:32 How to implement each method yourselfToday we're ta I agree that strength (especially finger strength) is very important in climbing, but I’d like to caution against the idea that technique is mostly intuitive, and that most people will be able to “figure it out” by just climbing. Climbing-wise, roughly speaking, Tuesday is a light day either drills or slab because it's a beast of a lifting day. Finger strength, though critical to climbing performance, is just one component to climbing hard. I have incredibly weak fingers that I’m looking to strengthen. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Many people want to isolate both exercises for misc. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. The traditional method of building finger strength is deadhanging, and Feb 24, 2023 · Developing a systematic approach toward training provides a way to modulate capacity, prevent overtraining, and reduce injury risk. Nov 24, 2023 · Try to touch the ground at each turnaround. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. That's in no way scientific, just observational, and it may be more a function of natural finger strength than anything else. 5 and 3 hours on working days. Block pulls are fast becoming a go-to for training climbing-specific grip strength. The strength will come. I've seen Eric Horst and Geek Climber actually train pinch strength with pinch blocks, which is a targeted and efficient way to expose yourself to frequent load and thus improve. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. While some routes offer generous, open-handed holds, others feature The drop in max strength might be because that way of testing finger strength is unusual for you now - f. I'm starting bouldering in the local climbing hangar next week and hoping this will help in both relative bodyweight strength and finger strength, Cheers Peeps, Climbing for 2 months? The best way to increase your finger strength right now is to just climb climb climb. 1 attribute for climbing performance… It’s no wonder everybody talks about finger strength training and the endless training sessions and tools that exist, but this can also make it a bit overwhelming when it comes to knowing what is best?! We thought it would be great to sit down with some of the best climbers in the UK (and who have some of the For a while, finger strength and technique were by far my biggest weaknesses. How much time does a mild finger tendon injury need to heal while “at rest”? Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? Reddit's rock climbing training community. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. If you really want to see progress on the fingerboard, maybe some weeks of light training with it will make you able to hang with more weight. Nov 21, 2022 · Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing capacity, endurance, and strength-to-weight ratio. Climb V3-V5 indoors (V4-V5 on Vert/Slab/sloper/burley climbs or basically anything that doesn’t require true finger strength, V3 on any significant incline/overhang). Recently got into rock climbing. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. I'm going to go against the grain. Some of the training exercises require rock-climbing grip training equipment or other exercise tools but most of them can be found in your local climbing gym or inexpensively online. In this video, you will learn the simplest finger strength training methods and how to use the Tindeq Progressor, a force measuring device, to test and train the finger for stronger fingers Looking for some advice. Due to the limited availability of hangboards and weights, you'll have to get creative with this one. Exercises: max hangs for multiple grips (e. . But so does upper body strength, technique, movement vocabulary, etc. Hangboarding does not account for any of this Between 2. Climbing is hard on the finger flexor tendons and pulleys. I'm hanging a tension block and a resistance band from a gymnastic ring and doing Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. TLDR: it’d be more beneficial to train open hand strength than full crimp strength. There's nothing wrong with training pull ups, but technique is the most important thing to learn in the beginning. Your grip is giving out because you need to improve your technique, not because you need to improve your grip. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. reasons. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. If you find for yourself you the best way to increase your functional finger strength is by hangboarding then I will 100% stand by that decision. MembersOnline • Beauboon ADMIN MOD Pull ups on small edges are an awesome exercise that is super underrated. Its really easy to over train the muscles in your forearms and develope issues like golfers/tennis elbow. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. You don’t need a climbing gym, as all exercise variations can be done with regular free weights and your body weight. It has been shown to reduce injury risk by exposing the fingers to supramaximal loads in a controlled environment and to improve performance by allowing you to climb harder and more frequently 1. : r/bodyweightfitness Go to bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness Dec 18, 2020 · Grip strength is one of the most critical aspects that differentiates a mediocre climber from an experienced one. I think that’s pretty common and so the “easy” solution is to continue to climb and train for finger strength. Training for climbing isn't simple and we all know it. Saturday is power endurance. Take it easy though, tendons are easily damaged. How climbers get STRONG fingers (3 methods) Emil Abrahamsson 255K subscribers Subscribed The problem with just climbing routes is that you don't usually expose yourself to enough pinches, so pinch strength won't drastically improve if you don't pinch enough. I’ve been climbing 3. We cover our favorite finger training methods, key principles to follow, how to apply your strength to the rock, how to avoid finger injuries, the power of consistency, and much more. Combining a finger program with mental conditioning and movement training can further optimize per Glossary Oct 18, 2024 · Strength Training Program for Climbers This is a strength training program for intermediate-level climbers who want to get stronger to help improve climbing performance. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Isolating is Reddit's rock climbing training community. Considering the toll that outdoor and board climbing takes on the fingers, how might one fit these around hangboarding? Would it be reasonable to only do 2 finger intensive workouts per week? Fitting into this category would be crimpy overhung outdoor routes, board climbing and hangboarding. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip I've talked about resting and finger strength but the same applies to all types of climbing movement and climbing strengths. half-crimp, 3 finger drag), minimum edge hangs Equipment: hangboard, no-hang device, any sort of edge. For beginners and those in their second season, bouldering is a great way to build grip strength. Jun 3, 2025 · Incorporating grip strength into a training program depends on your level and training goals. hiiuxsfxwpqfitekfdfoqsfymnatojphszhwesrjoghghetvnbgvufdb