Cordelette vs accessory cord reddit. It all comes out in the wash to being just fine.

Cordelette vs accessory cord reddit. In the past I have used their 7mm cordelette for this sort of thing, but I find Kevlar is best, accessory cord is also totally good enough (it's what I use) and a big fat nylon sling (like the guy was using) will probably also do the job although it's less than ideal. I think my rock anchor cordelette is 7mm and my rescue prusiks (for both rock and snow use) are 5mm. A vs. My static cord has two lengths of 1" tubular webbing slipped over it like hose for edge 8mm is standard size for cordelette, and used day-in, day-out for anchoring. 8kN and caries an EN564 certification, but I understand that it's more static than nylon (they advertise it as being more durable and water resistant). Aug 11, 2017 · A prusik hitch is an invaluable tool when rock climbing, traveling across glaciers, climbing ropes, etc. Hi guys and girls, I was wondering what width of prusik cord you all use to make yourself safe when setting up top ropes and… I always undo my cordelette to extend the anchor for top roping. TL;DR: Personally, I would not be worried about using this non-CE cord as a rappel extension or PAS. I initially bought a 30ft accessory cord, and sliced this down to 22ft because it was impossible to tie a quad. Clearly it depends on the cord you bought, since yours is apparently rated higher than that of the article. Climbing Cord and Cordlette Cord has a lot of uses in rock climbing, and can be used just like other slings can. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new Jun 7, 2024 · Quad with a cordelette While I'm generally not a fan of the 7 mm cordelette, you can certainly use one to make a quad anchor. Home Work at Height Ropes Accessory Cords Cordelette (price per meter) -15% Cordelette (price per meter) Accessory cords from 2 to 8 mm diameter conform to the requirements of the UIAA and EN564 Ideal for a multitude of applications, this 8 mm PMI accessory cord is built from strong yet supple nylon for easy handling. 3). edit: or that's not what it's called. 9-10 mm static cord or 1" tubular webbing for long TR anchors. trueIn this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. It you fall while roped into accessory rope, it will seriously injure you or break since it does not stretch. 65/Foot) FREE delivery Mon, Apr 14 on $35 of items shipped by Amazon 13 votes, 761 comments. Cordelette Anchor: Using a cordelette is a very popular way to connect two, three or more anchor points to create static equalization. Oct 6, 2020 · I need to replace some cord and am looking for brand recommendations. The prusiks should only be holding 1-2x bodyweight, not falls, and smaller cord is better for grabbing skinny alpine ropes. The knots subtract, but the loops add more back. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. my question is should i get cordelette or a dyneema sling? i’ve I just picked up some New England Ropes 7mm accessory cord to make a cordelette for trad climbing, and when I got home I realized it's 100% polyester. 7mm Nylon Climbing Accessory Cord Rope Cordage Line for Outdoor in 20 ft and 50 ft 29 $1299 ($0. 75 meter length offers plenty of room to customize the cord to your needs. Made in the USA. MAXIM Tech Cord is an exceptionally strong rope made of a Technora core and is perfect as a cordelette rope, for balancing anchors. Always thought 7mm was standard. 5mm dyneema "Titan" accessory cord in addition to their other offerings. It is fast and easy to rig--and faster to break down-- than a cordelette. No hardware means zero grams and no possibility of hardware failure. So I am looking to pick up some new accessory cord. The smaller diameter Alpine cord in 3-5mm can be used for tie-down straps, tent guys, clothesline, tool tethers, zipper pulls and shoelaces. Which should I invest in and which is more versatile and why. If anyone can share the diameter of the cord they used, the length of their Prusik loops, and/or what diameter they remember the cables being, I’d greatly appreciate it. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. In most anchoring situations you will have 4 to 6 loops. So, I use webbing because: (1) it is significantly stronger. The shop employee is wrong. Sterling | 7mm Accessory CordHigh quality 7 mm, 100% nylon accessory cord available in multiple colors. Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). Any good scientific approach to a question involves a hypothesis, and mine is that the Sliding X is a stronger choice than the Cordelette, giving said parameters. Check the breaking strength of your 5mm cord. Cords of this diameter have a good strength to weight ratio for setting up anchors. If I am carrying a cordelette, this is what I Mar 23, 2020 · And so comparable to a 4m sling. 5 m (17 to 25 ft) loop of cord, either 7 mm nylon accessory 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. 6 mm cord is dramatically less strong than 7 mm. How to tie a cordelette In this article I describe how to create a quad and a traditional overhand-knot anchor. Should I be worried about the CE? Does it matter for PAS or rappel situations? This is a bit complicated and involves a personal "judgement call". An angle of 45° increases the load on each component in a two-point anchor to only 54% (of the total load) whereas an angle of 90° would increase the load on each component to 71%. While it’s a bit expensive, it's only 6 mm but is rated to 20 kN, almost 3 times stronger than normal 6 mm cord. You will typically use a 7mm to 8mm diameter accessory cord to build an anchor. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. In this video, Miranda demonstrates three different 6mm vs 7mm Accessory Cord jumps in strength a huge amount compared to other diameters. I'm hesitant to tie one with this new cord since the internet's best answer to "how wise is it to prusik with a polyester cord" seems to be "use nylon. I will Accessory cords in a 120 meter roll Depending on the diameter, Petzl cords have a multitude of uses, for everything from mountaineering to home projects: reinforcing a belay, creating a self-blocking knot, working on a home project Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. I use a 5mm dyneema cordelette and it’s a lot less bulky than 3 slings. Each piece of the anchor is clipped into a loop of the cord and then a knot with a bight is tied at the bottom to fix the loops and use as the main point for the anchor. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). There simply isn’t anything that you can use to fully replace it. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. Apr 26, 2019 · I haven't used a cordelette in years actually, I prefer to make an anchor with the rope. I switched over to the meshed ones after my housemate watched a thinner spectra (with the nylon edging) cordelette break when shock loaded. Anyone have a fav accessory cord and want to say why? Price, softness, strength, weight? Do you use/train prussik’s and do they grab? Thank you! Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. What do you think the size of these should be. 1x Beal jammy - extra friction hitch for self rescue scenarios. Our sewn cord products have become very popular as they eliminate bulky knots without compromising strength. Cordelette A cordelette is just a fancy name for any strand of rope or cord that is tied into a loop. For trad multi-pitch I carry two, one for the belay at the bottom of a pitch and one for the belay at the top. Apr 2, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Mar 1, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. I will be mainly using this cord for building anchors or as a leash to clip into anchors with. I’m getting some conflicting information about the diameter of the cables, though, and therefore am a little unsure what diameter of cord to purchase to make the Prusik loops. However, CE standards absolutely do matter, in general, for safety applications. Dyneema is fine for slinging pickets or extending/equalizing stuff in general, because a rope will always be in the system as Mar 1, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Shop this selection of nylon cords in various diameters to find the right cord for your needs. Are accessory cord and cordelette the same thing ie is cordelette made of accessory cord? (I do actually also carry 6mm tech cord in old school cordelette form most of the time on long multipitch with gear anchors, especially when there are ledges with natural features to sling/tie off or the pitches are true rope-stretchers. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. Then again, I’ve got chocks from the 80’s that are tied with plain old accessory cord in a double fisherman’s, so you’re probably more than fine. It is strong, durable and easy to untie. It doubles as your safety, and is adjustable. 5 can vary from 0. ) I got 30ft of 5mm New England Ropes polyester accessory cord as a gift and I'm trying to figure out what I can use it for. i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad anchor of my own pretty much just to set up top rope with, and a quad anchor because it’s what i’ve used so far climbing with others so i just understand how to make it the most. u/experiential is right on the money I use 6mm for friction knots (or sewn slings with the FB-Sling friction knot) 7mm nylon cord for cordelette, when I use one. Our 7 mm sewn cordelette comes in 10. 8kn vs 12. Most people tie their cordelettes into a big loop, meaning the strength is effectively doubled, minus some weakening from the knot. It's just a lot of cord, and knots add to the needed length. Another reason is that the sheath of a 7mm cord is often more durable and can handle more scraping against rock. Nov 22, 2021 · Can you use accessory cord for anchors? About accessory cord and webbing Accessory cord (often called cordelette) is circular (about 6mm in diameter) and used for setting up anchors or a rappel, but it is more compact than webbing when hanging on a harness. Accessory cord isn't spectacularly dynamic - a few percents of elongation maybe - and the rope is spectacularly dynamic. Given the same length of cord (20ft), an equalette allows time to clip off of [up to] four primary placements, whereas with the cordelette you can usually only clip off three. You can also use 7 mm accessory cord, but I prefer the tech cord for its low bulk and durability. I was trying to find that perfect length for 3rd hand backup prusik cord, but I found that they should be smaller than my other prusiks. What are you using for the cordelette material? Just 7mm accessory cord? Good point re: fig 8 on a bight option and role as spare tat. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. Cordelettes (loops of accessory cord 5'-15' long) are typically used for building anchors. Any suggestions for something stronger than traditional spectra/dyneema cordelettes other than straight up nylon or accessory cord? Oct 17, 2010 · The Mammut Pro Cord is our favorite cord for making a cordelette. The 10kn rating on cordelette refers to it's single strand rated strength. Is it safe to extend rappels on a 9mm accessory cord? 2. Make sure to read about these useful cordelette tips that I wish I knew when I first started out on my climbing and hiking adventures. The cordelette is just a large sling, 6 or so metres in length. Keep slack out of your static anchors. B is a little easier than A vs. (Personally I prefer webolettes to cordelettes, but that is a whole other argument. Edit: The Cord i was referring to is called accessory cord or cordelette in the climbing community. Use the Cypher Cordelette in a variety of climbing applications, from building anchors to tying prusiks. Below Right: The "Eyes" of a snake cordelette made from webbing. Accessory cords in a 120 meter roll Depending on the diameter, Petzl cords have a multitude of uses, for everything from mountaineering to home projects: reinforcing a belay, creating a self-blocking knot, working on a home project Is it safe to extend rappels on a 9mm accessory cord? 2. I will You're probably carrying at least one cordelette with you for trad multipitch anyway (I like carrying three; one for the current anchor, one for the next anchor, and one for potential self-rescue scenarios), so the purcell prusik can double up as the third self-rescue cordelette in that scenario. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. Jan 7, 2013 · Accessory cord isn't spectacularly dynamic - a few percents of elongation maybe - and the rope is spectacularly dynamic. It can be better than other methods of equalizing in certain situations. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. PMI’s 7 mm nylon accessory cord is pre-cut to the standard 6. While it is more expensive than normal accessory A nylon sheath with nylon core accessory cord for a multitude of applications limited only by the imagination. long section of seven- to eight-millimeter Perlon accessory cord and use a double fisherman's knot to tie the cord into one big loop. CE and UIAA Certified. I don't have a lot of experience with cord beyond my prusik, and I've always used 6mm nylon for that. Oct 6, 2009 · I've seen people use Accessory cord to set their master point, and was curious to know if it really makes any difference to use one or the other. Its versatile 7 millimeter diameter is strong yet lightweight, and the 5. Here are some of the possible uses: trad anchors quad/PAS cam sling tying/tethering things rescue And the list goes on. This thread will be posted again every Friday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. To make a cordelette, take an 18-20 ft. With how forces can amplify in the worst case scenario, and knots weakening, I personally wouldn't want to use anything less than a 10kN MBS. If you are using tiny rope for anchors or rigging, you really need to know you can rely on the strength ratings. We broke 5mm, 6mm, 7mm and 8mm to see how much each jumped in strength. I was going through anchoring techniques and I came across this well-received question: Anchor without cordelette? How should one decide when to go for a Cordelette or an Equalette? Grab some cordelette and chuck on some double fisherman's knots and you have the equivalent of a new sling, plus you can make some extendables on cams that come with fixed length slings. 5 foot length (3. My quad still seems extremely long — should I cut this down even more to 18ft? Sep 21, 2018 · Cordelettes - what length and diameter? If you choose to carry a cordelette, the first questions are: what diameter, and how long? For snow climbing or glacier travel, consider 4 meters of 6 mm cord. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. 2M). Rare is it that I'm stretching a 70m length, and if I'm using double 60s, typically one rope has a bit more slack to it. 1x rated camp quicklink - add security to a bail anchor, can use my cordelette or rated cord on my chalk bag to backup a tat rap anchor. Accessory cord is the unsung hero of climbing, rescue, and work-at-height systems — small in diameter but mighty in function. I really wish I could get an additional 10 ft. A quad is a different way to rig a multipiece anchor using similar cord/webbing. When using a cord as a sling, it is called a cordlette. " As for anchors Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. So it will last longer than a 6mm cord. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. This strong and versatile accessory cord can be used in a wide range of applications. 24 votes, 29 comments. Remember, you have at least one loop, making two strands. I currently have some from two different sources - one being nice and supple, and the other is very stiff. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Traditionally this was a double fisherman’s, but a more modern method is a simple flat overhand. If you read the climbing anchors books, you'll get a reasoned argument why a cordelette isn't going to truly equalize your anchor, but in practice, it's close enough as long as you tie it while loading it in the direction of pull. 3 to 0. Unless it is tech cord that has a high strength core made of dyneema/spectra or technora it's probably not strong enough for the application. Many climbers bring around 20 feet of cord for building and equalizing anchors, but these cordelettes can be a hassle to carry on your harness. Stash them with the rest of your gear in Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Oct 6, 2009 · The Cordelette was smaller in diameter than the accessory cord by 1mm, yet it was advertised to have a greater load rating than pre-cut accessory cord by about 300-400 lbs (in a single strand, not rated as in magic W formation by my interpenetration on both packages). Sometimes I like to extend it over an edge that is about 8-10 ft back from the anchor and if I completely untie my 20’ Cordelette, I can extend about 8’ or so to the ledge rather than only about 4’ if it’s in a tied loop. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Many use 7mm cord (myself included). You may consider this semantics, but "cordelette" isn't a name for 7mm cord. Available in: 30FT Lengths in Red, Black / Melon Mix, or Sprout Mix 50FT Lengths in Camo 100FT Lengths in Sprout 60M Lengths in Red, Sprout, Black / Melon Mixes, Camo, or Solid Black 20FT Cordelette Lengths in Blue or Red Mix (3,000 lbf) Elongation: @ 300 lbf It has increased versatility. Apr 8, 2021 · The extra strength adds a buffer for big whips (which shouldn't happen when top roping unless the belayer is inattentive). It all comes out in the wash to being just fine. Whether you’re a sport climber building anchors, a mountaineer hauling gear, or an arborist organizing your setup, a reliable length of accessory cord is essential. But if you tie a knot in the cord, then presumably you are using a loop of cord at that point, which increases the strength by about %35. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. 5 in) of tail sticking out each end of the knot. 5 tech cord which is great, very strong for it's diameter, but it's expensive and I end up cutting up my cord to replace or backup rap tat pretty regularly. Switch to cord and use the appropriate knot : some like tautline but I prefer trucker's / waggoner's. I tried the 5. Regardless, the strength of the webbing is an order of magnitude higher than the strength of the cord. I make my longer cordelettes exactly the same way except that I use 6 m (20 ft) of PowerCord. Learn how to choose the type you need. This nylon cordelette offers greater shock absorbing capability and knot security than those made with aramid, HMPE, and other ultra-high modulus fibers. Above Right: A cordelette made from 6 metres of 7mm accessory cord and twist racked. you triple fishermans the two ends and wrap it around your hand until you get a small cord left and wrap it around the middle a few times and then push it through the center and clip a biner into it. I'd bet a solid 100$ that PAS is lighter. At first I used 7 or 8mm accessory cord to build anchors but found it was too bulky. Nylon Accessory Cord: Various lengths and diameters i should think so, but my paranoid ass would add an extra wrap (so a triple fisherman’s) since it isn’t redundant like most cordelette configurations. Aug 30, 2017 · Does accessory cord have a true core with a sheath? Looking at mine, it appears there is a core, but it is fairly small. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. . Bluewater is my manufacturer of choice for accessory cord, but I now notice that they have a 5. For rock climbing, consider 5 to 7 meters of 7 mm cord. I could very well be wrong! I'm here to learn, not flame. 20 extra feet of cord has come in super handy for me enough times in weird situations - for ascending, system shenanigans, sketchy fixed stations, longer-than 6mm vs 7mm Accessory Cord jumps in strength a huge amount compared to other diameters. However, some manufactures are making them with dyneema now too, but it's not cordelette if it's not round. In general, it comes down to preference, I'd say. 7mm is a very common standard for cordelette. Once you’ve cut the cord to length, tie the ends together with a double fisherman’s knot, leaving 4 cm (1. We were all new to climbing at some The 'Quad Anchor' is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. Reply reply More replies Individual-Channel65 • Twenty feet of 7mm static nylon accessory cord should do the job. I'm guessing you mean something like using webbing (nylon, dyneema, spectra, etc) or something like 6-7mm Accessory cord. 4 m (21 ft) cordelette length for convenience. Long slings or cordelette for building anchors. But would the lack of stretch in dyneema negate the extensive loading of one anchor, achieving equalization? If anyone is curious about the poor equalization properties of a cordelette I'm happy to go over it, and hear other people's opinions on the matter. I review three of the more common options below in a long winded rant but threw in a few photos to keep you going. Jul 28, 2014 · Accessory cord is traditionally made of nylon just like your climbing rope. Accessory Cords Available in various thicknesses and lengths, accessory cords are essential when it comes to keeping your equipment, shoes and accessories safe, for all types of mountaineering and climbing excursions, as well as for small handiwork projects. Cordelette sizing 6mm or 7mm what your preferences? I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. Reply reply [deleted] • Static ropes with a diameter smaller than 8mm are referred to as accessory cords. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. You can easily store this system on your harness. And an equalized cordelette is about 3x stronger than the cord. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). I bought the Cordelette specific, but was stuck with a 20 ft length. Oct 24, 2018 · Cordelette vary in terms of length and diameter, but a textbook cordelette is “7 and 7”: about 7 meters of 7mm cord, tied into one large loop with a well-dressed knot. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. Both of these can be rigged with a 5 to 7. bucky ball. the entire alphabet, with multiple variations under each choice. A useful length of accessory cord for most circumstances is 20-25ft. As an aside, do you ever use guide mode when bringing up a second, and if so do you ever do it without a power point (whether sling or cordelette)? Voi la, you have a cordelette and can use it to (kind of) equalize three anchors. Rather it's one common way to use that cord - or other materials - to rig a 3 or 4 piece anchor. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Cords are also commonly used in belay loops and anchoring systems. Will it being loaded with 200-400 pounds over 8+ hours damage the cord? So, I understand that using a cordelette as a belay anchor really isn't the safest with nylon/dynamic materials. It takes up about the same amount of space as the 120 i used to carry for a personal anchor. Jan 22, 2025 · Gear Review: Cordelette Company: Blue Water Product: 7mm Accessory Cord The real draw to cordelette is you can do almost anything with it, and you can do it well. Edit since there are beginners here: accessory cord is never a substitute for an alpine or climbing rope. I fail to see how a couple knots in a cordelette would yield a significant weight difference than a PAS. Most are made from Nylon but you can also get some top tier stuff from dynema. It's still rated at 9. In the photo below, the red cord is Sterling Powercord. However, there are a range of options when it comes to prusik material and of course each has its strengths and weaknesses. I used a length of accessory to set up a hammock where the straps wouldn’t reach between the trees. wxxuh rbro kzezhk epn sdnobonk qiiuh yer qil lni hhl